Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Pendula'

I love this tree. The form, the color, the texture it provides in the landscape. In my opinion, weeping trees are hard to use in a landscape. Many people try, and many fail. The Hinoki False Cypress 'Pendula' is an easy one to start with, especially since it is not a complete weeper, it still has a mostly upright form, and the branching is usually very even and balanced. This is rare in an evergreen weeper.
From observation, a good deal of the better known evergreen weepers are not symmetrical as they grow, their form is not balanced, and therefore I think they look awkward in a formal landscape, even as a focal plant.
By focal plant, I mean the specialty plant that is sometime planted in a rather plain and formal setting that is meant to draw attention, spark interest and spice up the entire display.
In theory, a weeping plant would be a good choice for such a setting, because they are such an oddity in nature, but they are sometimes a little too odd for me.
Take the weeping beech 'Purple Fountain' - sure the reddish purple foliage is desirable, and the idea of a beautiful weeping purple mass in the landscape sounds amazing, but the form of the juvenile nursery stock Purple Fountain is terrible. I bought one for a community garden project once because their garden theme was the Wizard of Oz and all I could think of was those trees that thew apples at Dorothy, and how they resemble the Purple Fountain beech a bit, ugly and a bit scary. Sure enough, when planted, everyone at the community garden said it did remind them of the angry apple trees.
I knew it would stay looking that way for a while too, since beech trees in general are not fast growers. But even the more mature Purple Fountains I've seen do not impress me much. The form is all over the place, with no definite leader, and from the top down, it just looks like a chaotic blob of weeping purple branches. If you have never see one, google Fagus 'Purple Fountain'.

So back to the Hinoki False Cypress 'Pendula' (Chamaecyparis nootkatensis 'Pendula)' - this is one of the few weeping trees I would recommend. It can add interest to any garden (if the garden is in the right spot to cater to the likes of the Hinoki), the form is more balanced than most weepers, and the color is a very pretty bluish green. I recently bought one (10' balled and burlaped) and planted it in a semi shade spot in a protected courtyard area at an apartment complex. It looks stunning, even in an immature state, and is the focal point of the entire shady bed. Pictures to come soon.
As for care, these weeping beauties do need some protection from northwest winter exposure, and they do grow better with a bit of shade from the afternoon sun. They don't like wind in general, it dries them out to much, and they do like to be watered regularly, especially when newly planted.
They are suggested for growing, up to zone 4 (thats in the north, that is why I say up), as long as there is high moisture in the air so that they don't dry out too much. Although slow growers, if left to themselves, they will eventually grow up to 30-45' tall. Wow! I would love to see one that big!
So if you have a spot you think a weeping tree will work, check the Hinoki False Cypress out, I don't think you will be disappointed.
Do be prepared though for lots of questions from neighbors or passersby asking if the tree is sick or dying. When I planted mine in the courtyard at the apartment complex, a woman who had never seen a weeping tree just kept telling me how sad she felt for the poor sick tree, she thought it needed more water. Thankfully she refrained from watering it herself and so my extremely healthy Hinoki was saved from too much water, and is now the beauty of the grounds!

'Dragon's Blood' Sedum

I've worked with 'Dragon's Blood' Sedum a lot in IL, because this particular creeping sedum has an excellent red color and is hardy beyond some of the others I have worked with. Even when it looks mostly dead, just keep it in it's place, and the following spring it may surprise you with an unexpected shoot of new life. I've used it in rock gardens, in full hot sun, but I've also had it do well in a partial shade garden with hosta and hydrangeas, I just made sure to plant it on the edge so that it was not shaded by other plants.
Only draw back I could find in the part shade was that it did not spread as quickly and it was not as deep of a red, and I don't remember it flowering either. So I guess that is a few draw backs, but it still grew and was pretty.
In addition to loving the color, hardiness, and versatility of this sedum, I also like that it's new, long shoots easily root themselves around, so that if I decide to move some of it, it has it's own root system. Love it!
Now, if you have never worked with any of the ground cover sedums, be warned, they can be addicting. They are tough, beautiful and add amazing texture to your garden, especially rock gardens. Some of my other favorites include 'Blue Spruce', 'Angelina' (like a blue spruce but yellow/green), 'Fulda's Glow' a very pretty golden one with rosy blush, and 'Voodoo' another nice red one. Oh, I also like a variety that goes by just the species, Sedum platycladus.
If you are at all interested in these, www.bluestoneperennials.com carries most of these varieties and I've found their selection, service and prices to be exceptional as far as online sights for ordering from. I've never had a problem with any of the plants I've ordered thru them.
You can also find a number of varieties, even more than I've mentioned at your local garden centers. Got a rocky spot in your yard you don't know what to do with, make it into a rock garden with some fantastic sedums! Happy Gardening!!!

The Mysteries of Zones and Light Requirements

When I was in college classes for Horticulture there were some things that were immediately helpful to my gardening skills, two of those tools were understanding what is meant when a plant is given a growing 'zone' and how to understand light requirements for plants.
So, to share a bit of the wealth, I have decided to break it down for those who don't already know.
Zones are based on average winter lows and the smaller the number, the more cold hardy the plant is. Example, a zone 3 plant can stand a very hard freezing winter, and a zone 8 plant is probably tropical. Zone 3 is somewhere in Canada most likely, and a zone 8 is in south Florida. Got it. Now some people even break them down further and say things like zone 5a or 5b, if it is a rather large zone. That tells you for sure if it is hardy to that zone or only marginal.
An example of a marginal plant would be some of the rhododendrons that are zoned for zone 5, but I use to live in central Illinois and we were considered a 5a, the colder half of zone 5. So if we had a particularly bad winter one year, or my rhododendron was in an unprotected spot, it may not survive even though I am technically a zone 5 and it should be hardy.
That is why in a previous post I talked about mostly only using plants with a cold hardiness zone of 4 or lower, because plenty of plants with a zone 5 were only marginal in my region of the zone. I had some very pretty roses one year, but they were hardy to zone 5, and when it came around to the following spring they had died back all the way to the root. Only the root survived the cold winter and so I ended up with a very vigorous red rose instead of the pink hybrid I had purchased...
Roses are a bit temperamental in general, but there are plenty of other plants that do the same thing, but they are not grafted on a root stock and so you lose the whole thing. Lavender is one of those. I have tried and tried to keep different lavender plants that say they are hardy in a zone 5, but they always die in the winter, and if they do survive, they are so maimed why keep them.
Now on to light requirements. First off, full sun is not all day sun! That said, full sun equals 6 hrs or more of direct sunlight. Typically the more sun the better, but it is not required for the plant to live. Now, for flowering plants, sometimes when they are not in full, all day sun they tend to not bloom as well, but they will live and be beautiful. Part sun therefore is between about 3-6 hrs of direct sunlight, and shade is 3 hrs of sun or less in a day.
There are also different types of shade. Dappled shade, as in a bed under a very tall tree, where light comes in through the leaves and where the branches are trimmed up very high. This is most common under deciduous trees (non-evergreen, lose their leaves in the winter). Dense shade is that of evergreens, or trees that have branches hanging very near the ground. Not much will grow well in dense shade except moss and moss requires it to be damp dense shade.
North sides of buildings are usually a problematic spot, because it never gets hardly any direct sun and a building does not create dappled light. Yet, as long as it is open aired and there is nothing to block early morning and late evening sun, then there is still hope to grow some shade plants there, like ferns and Hosta and some shade loving shrubs like Japanese Kerria. 
So hopefully that sheds some light on some of these issues. One thing that I will mention is that these light requirements do not carry over to indoor plants very well. If you are growing a cactus, obviuosly it needs high light indoors, but that is a totally different kind of high light and is unrealistic to expect it to receive 6 or more hours of direct sunlight in a day. Well, I shouldn't get started on that, I have not the time or energy to tackle that topic.
For another day, and until then, hope this was helpful.

Salvia 'Caradonna'

One of my very favorite perennial Salvia's for the Midwest. Although 'May Night' is one of the best known, I think this plant superior to 'May Night' in a couple ways. Taller than 'May Night', this one can be a back row plant in a sun perennial garden. Also, 'Caradonna' has red stems which add interest and contrast to the leaves even when its not in bloom.
This picture hardly shows off the red stems, but overall, it is a good enough picture. Compliments of finegardening.com, a wonderful website to explore when you are at leisure.
Now, on to my favorite ways to use Salvia.
In my opinion Salvia's make poor bedding plants, in the front row, at least, because their feet are always bare. Even in the fullest sun I tend to still be able to see the bare bottom stems and I don't like it! It is the same problem I have with Monarda, but both are such great butterfly and hummingbird attractions that I can't stop myself from using them in the garden.
So I have learned to put smaller, more dense plants in front of them to hide their bare 'feet'. Now 'May Night' is almost too short for me to do this well, which is why I like 'Caradonna' so much better. I have used 'Caradonna' in a perennial bed in the back row with 'Marshall's Delight' Monarda, with Sedums and Cranesbill Geraniums and dwarf Daylilies in front of that, and then smaller perennials like Coral Bells and Cheddar Pinks Dianthus. Very nice in my opinion.
Now, they say that 'Caradonna' is only hardy to a zone 5, but I lived and used this plant in a zone 5a (the colder half of 5) and it did great, even in more open spaces.
I say all that because I usually don't buy plants when their hardiness zone ends on my zone. If I am a zone 5, then I like to grow things hardy to zones 4 or lower, because being in the colder half of that zone, I find that some of the things zoned for me are only marginal in my area. So I dont' like to invest in things that are only marginal, I want plants that will thrive in my zone. 'Caradonna' is one of the few I have grown with an ending hardiness zone of 5, and it had done wonderfully.
I have grown it here in Missouri as well now, and it has done just as well, but the deer here like it very well also. So I don't get a second flush of blooms in the fall because they munch it to the ground. They do however leave it alone in the spring because there are so many other delicacies in my garden to munch, like my coral bells and sedum, the sedum is their favorite.
Well, so that is my review on 'Caradonna' Salvia! Happy growing.

Rose of Sharon (Hardy Hibiscus

The shrub commonly called the Rose of Sharon bush, which is not a rose at all, is actually part of the Hibiscus family (Hibiscus syriacus) and yet can grow as far north as Zone 5. Some of the merits of this plant to take note of, besides being very hardy in cold climates, is its form, array of colors available, and its over all toughness, taking many different light conditions and soil conditions.
I have one in my yard now that is in almost complete shade and it still looks wonderful. Bright green leaves, healthy looking shape (not leggy), and it even flowers, a little. This years blooms I could probably count on my two hands, but I don't mind because it is a nice specimen in a shady spot not much else could grow in.
I have another in a more sunny spot, but probably only half sun, and it blooms great, looks great, and even the form in the winter is appealing. It has a spreading upward habit, and on the ends of many of its branches are the dried flower bud casings (the part that surrounds the bud before it blooms).
One note worthy thing to add - the deer do not eat these! This is cause for praise indeed.
Now, besides the two in my yard, I have worked with these a lot and there are lots of different cultivars. Some are larger than others and some are more profuse bloomers than others, some even have double blooms rather than the single bloom common to the species. I have seen this plant used as a blooming hedge, and also as a distant plant of interest. When I say distant plant of interest, I have known people to tuck them into a distant wood line, and you never notice them until they bloom. I have also seen Japanese Kerria's used in this way, as well as many other beautiful plants that are sometimes too messy for a formal garden, or too large.
Rose of Sharon are rather large, and so therefore have to be planted in a place that anticipates the size. I have seen people buy this at the garden center in a cute little one gallon pot, bring it home, plant it by their front window and in 4 years it is eating the front of there house (not literally, just blocking the view and branches plastered up against the siding). So they cut it out and have to start new. If that had bought something size appropriate, they would have made a better investment.
Enough of that though, you realize it is big, here is how big the average Rose of Sharon grows to: anywhere from 4-6 feet all the way to 8-10 feet. That is not an exaggeration. Some even get as tall as 12 feet, but they a can be pruned to shape them as a hedge, not a tidy hedge like a privet, but a more loose hedge. Just mind when you trim, or you will cut off all your flower buds. Best time to prune is after flowering for sure, but wait even into the fall or winter when the plant is dormant. It blooms on new growth, so when it wakes up in the spring, it is too late unless you want to lose the years blooms.
Now, on to some of my favorite cultivars in this species. There are a lot to choose from, even a tricolor, which is actually one plant with two other colored Hibiscus grafted in, giving the impression that one plant is blooming in three different colors. Not one of my favorites, but here are some that do hit the mark with me.
'White Chiffon' - double white (I do not typically like white flowers, but these are beautiful)
'Aphrodite' - pinkish purple single bloom with a red center
'Lucy' - double pink blooms (one of the most beautiful I think)
'Collie Mullins' - double lavender blooms
Those are just a few of the cultivars available.
One thing I was reminded of just now. Some people consider this an invasive species of sorts because the seeds are viable (fertile) and can be spread around by the birds. I have found however that they are not that numerous (the seedlings) in my northern region and can easily be pulled up. If you mulch your beds they are even easier to deal with. In my opinion they are no more invasive than a sugar maple. When they drop seeds you  see a flush of seedlings some times, but the majority of the seedlings do not survive the summer heat, and the ones that do can easily be pulled up.
A note of consideration though, I am in a zone 5/6 and so on the colder end of things, in the southern regions they(Rose of Sharon seedlings), but I do not know for sure. Consult a local garden center if you are concerned.

Crabapple (Malus) 'Tina'

Well, after discussing my failures with Rosemary, I thought I should discuss something I have had lots of success with in my Midwest gardens. Crabapples! They are tough, flower in the spring in amazing colors, some even have red tinted leaves, they produce fruit which attracts wildlife, and they are small trees in general, good for smaller spots in the garden, while still adding some height. There are also many cultivars on the market that have very good form. Some of my favorites include 'Prairie Fire', 'Sargent', and 'Profusion Pink', but 'Tina' is by far a stand alone in this family. It is the smallest cultivar, growing just 4-5' tall and about 4' wide at maturity. Reason why this is such a valuable cultivar to know, it is small, like a Japanese Maple, but is much less expensive than a Japanese Maple. Most people love the tree form of the Japanese Maples and the fact that it fits right by their front door without shading out all their other plants. Well, the flowering crabapple 'Tina' can also fit by your front door and does not shade out your other plantings, and grows faster than the Jap. Maples. It flowers white in the spring and only produces small fruits that the birds easily eat (rather than them dropping and making a mess), and has excellent disease resistance.
I have also found that it has excellent form, which means less pruning to shape it, so less work in general to keep in small and beautiful.
For more just general information on flowering crabs, this particular website is very thorough and lists many other cultivars that are available, including some weeping forms. Weeping crabapples are also usually smaller and work well in small gardens or by your front door as a specimen plant.
Picture compliments of Iowa Arboretum's website for Malus sargentii 'Tina' which shows the size of the tree in relationship to a gazebo and the wonderful rounded form of the tree. Excellent photo and specimen and I highly recommend visiting the Iowa Arboretum in general. Great examples of many of my favorite plants.

Rosemary 'Spice Island'

Well, this is not a favorable post toward the Rosemary plant. I have yet to ever grow a Rosemary plant successfully indoors, and have had very poor results outdoors also.  This specific cultivar 'Spice Island' was the quickest 'gonner' yet. A week at most tops, and now it is green, yet crispy, sitting in my window.
I have tried to work with Rosemary a lot since I love to cook with it, but I either over water it or under water it (the case with the latest fatality). They are also from a region of the world that is hard to duplicate in the midwest in general; the Mediterranean. It likes sandy, poor soil that is well drained, which means don't keep it's feet (roots) too wet. It also likes direct sun exposure, so a south facing window is a must in wintering it over indoors.
I do not currently have a south facing window in my apartment, as well as the draw back of having a heat vent under every window in the place - only good growing conditions for succulents and cacti I'm afraid. Can I just say, boring and not overly friendly for a house with a two year old. Still, here is a website article that tells more about the ideal growing conditions for a rosemary, indoor and out. Also, some more heat tolerant varieties are 'Herb Cottage', 'Miss Jessopp's Upright', and 'Pinkie' according to the same article.
I hear on the north west coast they do wonderfully and my friends that have been there tell me they grow into hedge rows. I would love to see that since this is probably one of my favorite herbs in the whole world. Still, as a gardener with a lot of experience and expertise on how to grow many different kinds of plants, this is not one of them.
If anyone reading this is a rosemary expert or has had success growing them in the midwest (indoors or out), please comment on this post, I would love some time tested tips. Thanks.